Moroccan Roll

September 8, 2023

The Kasbah was Rocked. Ksar Aït Ben Haddou

And the earth moved.

A 6.8 earthquake hit Morocco as I was travelling there. By this time I was in Fes. The quake was 50 kilometers southwest of Marrakesh in the high Atlas Mountains, some 600 kilometers away. I was safe. But more than 2000 people lost their lives in small villages near the epicenter. A devastating result.  

In fact, I didn't even feel the earthquake, though others in Fes did, and some felt it as far away as Portugal.  I was asleep. I crossed Strait of Gibraltar aboard a ferry from Tarifa, Spain to Tangier, Morocco earlier in the morning. I arranged a tour that would take me from the Port of Tangier to Fes, a Sahara Desert camp, the Dades Valley in the High Atlas Mountains, and ending in Marrakesh. Luckily my plans were not affected by the earthquake, but I saw signs of damage in mountain areas. But even though I am traveling and reporting for fun, I hope my readers and friends will be able to help the victims in some way.

Morocco takes passport control very seriously. We have passport scanned before boarding the ferry and this is a key point, you must have it scanned ON the boat before disembarking. Passengers lined up for this immediately. I decided to wait for the queue to subside before doing so, but it never really happened. I just went out to the small deck in back and enjoyed to views. I was the last one off of the boat after the passport stamping. So, it's your choice, stamp it right away and maybe miss some views or be last. But don't leave the boat without this happening. Morocco border security will send you back on the boat. Numerous passengers had to do this.

One very important recommentation for any friends with motion sickness or sea sickness issues. Buy Sea Bands. These beaded bracelets are a life saver for me. I wear them for every sea cruise. Believe me when I didn't use anything before, like on a trip from L.A. to Catalina Island, I was so sick and turning all sorts of colors. I have never again had that issue with Sea Bands. Buy them. That is all.

Don't forget those Sea Bands!

Our ferry left a few minutes late and with the time it took to go through passport control and disembarking, I was nearly 45 minutes late meeting my tour driver Hossain. But he was there waiting, cheerful as ever!

Morocco does not observe a daylight saving time so the time is one hour earlier than European Summer Time. The hour long ferry ride, due to leave at 9 am in Spain, arrives in Tangier at 9 am. Or 9:45 if you are me.

Hossain gifted me a beautiful box of Moroccan treats and a water, then stopped to let me get Dirham cash at the ATM. Tangier is a large city and looks quite modern from this section of town. On the road we pass the medina (the old city) but most of Tangier now is the new city. Whitewashed buildings and looks pretty with palm trees and pomegranate trees all over.

My tour doesn't include a stay or prolongued visit, but it might be something for a future trip. Or maybe your tour does a few stops in Tangier. It might be interesting.

The Moroccan people are 65-75% Berber tribes, not Arabs. Though they speak a version of Arabic, many natives speak Berber language and it is now being taught in schools again. But most Moroccans speak French and English as well, as it was under control of France for quite some time. 

The Blue City

Hossain expertly drove to the first stop of the tour, Chefchaouen, known as the Blue City. The prevailing story is that Jews, fleeing Nazi Germany during WWII, painted walls, floors, and steps blue to represent the sky to connect to God. Muslims and Jews previously escaped persecution in Andalucia, Spain to settle here also. Whatever the reason, the city is beautiful and is a maze of corridors and passageways full of homes and shops with plenty of silly trinket souvenirs but also interesting spice and food shops. If you pay a small courtesy fee to some residents, you can get quality photographs. The exchange rate of USD to Moroccan Dirham is about 10 to 1. If you feel like you are getting lost, just head downhill a bit and eventually you'll get back to the main or old town.

Fascinating!

We arrived in Fest in early evening to a Riad, which is an old house converted into a hotel, inside the Medina (again, the old city). Any hotel outside the medina is Not a Riad.  It is quite fancy and an unexpected pleasure. Green marble countertops, two showers, an ante-room, and very large room and bed. Three sets of windows open to the courtyard below. In Riads, this is standard, windows open to the inside, not the outside. 

The 2 very nice gentlemen running the establishment are very accomodating and served a delicious meal of tagine beef, vegetables, and rice with delicious sauce. I think I may have to buy a tagine pot and get some recipes. Moroccan food is deep in the arena of Meditteranean cooking, fresh lean beef, chicken, lamb, or seafood and plenty of vegetables.  And always lots of olive oil and a bowl of olives served at every meal.

 

In every road to every destination on this trip, we pass untold number of olive trees. It is a major market here. And they are tasty. We also see many pomegranate trees. The seeds are used in cooking also, and sometimes will be in the tagine dishes. It adds a delicate sweetness that is typical of Moroccan tastes. 

Every encounter with new Moroccan friends and hosts will begin with tea, a mixture of special moroccan blended tea leaves and mint. Always served from a silver pot and poured from a height of 10-12 inches high. Of course I spilled mine everywhere when I tried it. They call it Berber Whiskey as a play on words. It is non-alcoholic as most of the country does not imbibe. But it does somewhat have the color of whiskey. Served with sugar mostly but you may have it without. They love their sugar and mint. It is worth having every time. I may have bought a pot and a big bag of tea. 

Tagine pots

So many spices!

Dates in market

Apple stand in Midelt

I had dinner at 9 and was in bed and fast asleep before 11:11 pm, the time of the earthquake. The staff would tell me later that they felt it, like a swaying motion, rather than a shaking. I can't imagine what that felt like in the High Atlas. I didn't even hear about the earthquake until some friends on Facebook asked about it. So yes I marked myself safe. 

I'm so amazed and inspired by the Moroccan people and their solidarity in helping each other in the quake's aftermath. Homeless men helping people from the rubble. I was plenty of pickup trucks gathering supplies from people, ready to take to affected areas. An older gentleman riding his bike to a donation center to give what small amount he could, 3 pounds of flour or mill. Lines and lines of people waiting to donate blood. They had such a response that they were told it was no longer neeeded. 

The Morocco tour continues into the next blog. I didn't want to overwhelm you. The most fun on a camel coming soon!