September 11, 2023
"Wouldn't you know we're riding on the Marrakesh Express, They're taking me to Marrakesh."
Ok well it's not by car but yes, the road to Marrakesh continues.
Driving across Morocco, we see all regions, the Rif Mountains of Northern Morocco where Chefchaouen lies, the Low, Middle, and High Atlas mountains, and the desert and beautiful oasis areas in between. This is Ifrane, an alpine styled city in the Middle Atlas.
The same Barbary Ape Monkeys live in Morocco too. Here we encounter and are able to feed these little guys in the forest in Azrou.
For about 1 Euro, you can buy a bag of peanuts and hand them to the monkeys. Some other guys showed up and I handed them some peanuts to feed the apes too. Make sure you keep the bag of nuts up high or the little guys will grab it! Or cling to your leg to get up to it! Funny creatures.
When preparing for the desert, a scarf if a must! Works better than a hat! The merchant who sold be the scarf dressed it for me. Hossain also helped me with it but I need to learn myself!
The main attraction is the dunes near Merzouga in the Sahara Desert. The drive from Fes is 7 hours with those stops. A fun camel ride is in store! I have to admit I was a little nervous about this as we approached the area. This is a gathering point for several tour companies. I met our guide Hami and camel Hidal.
Hidal is kneeled down and I climb on is back. The first lift is from his hind legs and there is a feeling of being hurled over the front of him, but the guide is there to help and Hidal quickly raised his front legs and up we are and ready to stroll! It is super fun very slow pace up through the dunes. Hami, walks in front the whole way. We have another camel behind us, without a rider, so maybe it is just to accompany Hidal for support. I noticed other couples with an extra camel also, so it isn't just because I was solo. I suspect it is for all of the camel guide's ride back after dropping us off.
After about 45 minutes through the dunes, we stop and dismount for a climb higher up the sands to watch the sunset.
Even though joined by others, there is a bit of tranquility and alone with your thoughts to look out into distant lands. Algeria isn't far away. How many nomads crossed this nearly inhospitable land finding their peace and living. Wear that head scarf for when, not if, the winds pick up and blow sand in your face. And I have my hydration pack for much needed water.
It is back on the camel and a nice long walk to the desert camp. Hami jokes we are going all the way to Algeria, only 30 kilometers away! We arrive at the designated tent area where other nomads join. We all meet for a bit of tea and chat. These guys from Belgium were there and they recognized me from the monkey feeding site, "You're the guy with the monkeys!"
A bit later after settling in to the tent that had with electricity, Wi-Fi, a nice bed, full bathroom and shower, the call for dinner is announced. I was seated at my own small table, but the Belgian guys invited me over to sit at theirs. We had enjoyable conversations and delicious dinner of tagine beef, vegetables and couscous. The guys met in University in Antwerp (one gentleman, Ben, is actually from Zimbabwe, but went to Antwerp for school). They are recent graduates and work in different cities now, but stayed friends and take annual trips together. I envied them a bit because as I tend to over plan and set a distinct itinerary, they are free spirited and plan each day the night before. There is something to be said about that. Tomorrow for them is either the beach resort town Essaouira. Or first over to Marrakesh, still long drive and a stop might be needed. Or maybe hitch a ride with me! Lol. I don't think Hossain is allowed to do that.
I'm not sure they were still decided in the morning over breakfast, but they did secure a ride somewhere. Hope they made it to the beach. One of them told me he envied my approach to travel and the solo independent concept. I think there is advantages to both. I always know I need more spontaneity in my travels. But here is to you Ben, Jule, and Levi. Enjoy where the road takes you always.
After dinner we enjoyed some Berber music. The musicians tried to teach us all how to play, but none of us could get the rhythm right. Ha! But it was so fun!
In the morning, we traveled onward toward Dades Gorges and Valley area into the High Atlas mountains still 250 kilometers from Marrakesh and hardest hit earthquake epicenter. Making some stops at markets and a canyon that reminded me more of Santa Elena Canyon at Big Bend. They like to say it is the Grand Canyon of Morocco. But it is more like Santa Elena with the small river flowing though the high sheer cliff walls.
In Dades Valley area we begin to see some quake damage more as rock slides and road work beginning to fix some of the places.
The Dades hotel stay was a really nice place with gorgeous pool and overlooks the city high upon a rock. The hotel manager seemed less enthused about his job than I've seen, so it kind of dampened the mood, but the food was still good, even more beef tagine. Seriously, I need to get a pot and recipes.
Stopping for a visit at the Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou is where we see the 11th Kasbah. Earthen dwellings built into the high cliffs. They are now mostly empty apartment or homes but they are home to merchants offering their wares and gifts. And perhaps can support people living in them again in the future. More significant damage is seen here as some of the rooms have been destroyed and falling stones and rocks bear witness to how the devastated areas closer to the epicenter may be. It is scary enough here that perhaps a few days earlier I may have been caught in some of this debris. But it's a beautiful ancient palace with vistas, and the people here persevere.
We end the trip with a couple of stops at markets and a Argon oil cooperative. Argon is plant much like orange or any other essential oil to derive the minerals from the nuts. Most is not for eating but for skin and hair care. Although some edible is derived similar to olive oil and an almond butter type paste with a bit of chocolate and cinnamon added.
Marrakesh is only the 4th largest city in Morocco. It is very tropical with wide and open avenues and palm trees. It seems business as usual here and little damage from the earthquake, although people are still sleeping in tents outside their home, for fear of more aftershocks and collapses. It seems stable now however. Marrakesh is really just the end spot of the tour. I didn't plan of visiting sites there so Hossain took me to the train station departing for Casablanca. Perhaps it is due for another visit as well, when the time is right. Many officials and tours are recommending keeping away so they first responders can still do their important work.
Casablanca or Casa as they call it, is the largest city in Morocco. I did a quick 3 hour tour of the old city and markets, but really could have just visited the Mosque there. I saw it from outside but heard the inside is quite spectacular.
And in Casablanca you have to visit Rick's Café right? Or reasonable facsimile. Of course the one in the film isn't real and wasn't even filmed here. It was just a Hollywood set. But it's kind of a fun thing to see. But in reality I could have skipped Casablanca. It's just a big busy city now.
But whether a big city or small village, fabulous mountain passes, sandy deserts, and lush forest oasis, Morocco is a beautiful place filled with amazing friendly people. I highly recommend a visit and a tour.
Of course, tours will stop at places you didn't think about like the markets, or argon oil coop, or dress shop, which probably have deals with the tour companies. Which is fine, it is likely good quality anyway. In the market Hossain took my past other spice stalls to a specific one where I bought a few things. I'm still supporting local artisans and farmers. It's a win win. Of course you never HAVE to buy anything.
After my fabulous time in Morocco, where I think I left a small piece of my heart, it is time to head back to Spain and a visit to the Capital, Madrid.
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