June 10, 2018
The final leg of this trip is Zion National Park, known before 1919 as Mukuntuweap National Monument. Today, I've learned the phrase also means "straight up lands." Indeed. The sheer rock cliff formations are awe inspiring. The Virgin River, which looks like a small stream in most places, has plowed though all this once flat rocky sandstone plain over millions of years and is still carrying sediment with it daily. It's also quite refreshing to splash around in after (or during) a strenuous hike.
I planned on 3 nights and 2+ days of hiking and exploring. It's best to visit Zion via the free Shuttle from Springdale, Utah, then take a hop on hop off shuttle to various points and trailheads throughout. You can pay a walk-up entrance fee, or pay by the car and take a scenic drive on the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway and Tunnel. I chose the former for this trip and set up my base in La Verkin (not to be confused with Virgin) Utah. La Verkin is right next to Hurricane and is about 20 miles away from Springdale. Take highway 9 to the town, park in a designated area, pay $22 for the day and ride the shuttle into the park, or get there very early and take your own car in. But you still need to pay the park entrance fee and then take the Zion shuttle inside the park (or just walk in the park).
I tend to sleep in so I got to the park at noon, rode the shuttle to the last stop to see what the Narrows was about. The first part of the trail was the easy Riverside with great vistas of the river and cliffs. This the wider part.of the canyon. At the end of Riverside, you cross the river and head into the narrow canyon, with less daylight, no trail (the trail is the river). It looks fantastic, but I was on my easy day, so I'll try to come back later. I needed to tackle some more easy and moderate trails, Weeping Rock, Kayenta, and Lower Emerald Pools.
The Emerald Pools are a series of pools created by the streams and dripping waters. There are three, Upper, Middle, and Lower. Start at the Grotto trail and take the left fork, lest you will be on the Angel's Landing trail. Go left and you are on the Kayenta trail. It climbs quickly, winds around on the sun drenched countryside. But patience is rewarded as you find a cooler, shadier trail and can take your choice of Emerald Pool trails. Overlooking the pools some fellow hikers and I cooled off under more water drops and viewed the pools below.
It's like an oasis in this high desert for water loving plants and wildlife here. Next time I need to see the Middle and Upper Emerald Pools. I imagined more sparkling waters and the lower one seemed more of a swampland. Still, it is an unexpected respite from the sun and heat on your journey back to the Zion Lodge.
After that hike, it seemed like a good idea to chill out at the Lodge patio and enjoy a local lager from the Zion Brewery of Springdale.
I've decided I've had an amazing time here and finished with hiking for this time. I'll come back again and do more. Maybe you'll join me. But for now, on going to relax with a Zion brew or 3 and think about this wonderful, weird, worrisome trip. I cant say it it's the worst trip I've ever been on, it's been quite excellent and I don't want to go home (although I keep singing the Beach Boys song "Sloop John B" ..."let me go home", "why cant I go home"). I'm full of contradictions. But the ending here is pretty spectacular.
I planned on 3 nights and 2+ days of hiking and exploring. It's best to visit Zion via the free Shuttle from Springdale, Utah, then take a hop on hop off shuttle to various points and trailheads throughout. You can pay a walk-up entrance fee, or pay by the car and take a scenic drive on the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway and Tunnel. I chose the former for this trip and set up my base in La Verkin (not to be confused with Virgin) Utah. La Verkin is right next to Hurricane and is about 20 miles away from Springdale. Take highway 9 to the town, park in a designated area, pay $22 for the day and ride the shuttle into the park, or get there very early and take your own car in. But you still need to pay the park entrance fee and then take the Zion shuttle inside the park (or just walk in the park).
I tend to sleep in so I got to the park at noon, rode the shuttle to the last stop to see what the Narrows was about. The first part of the trail was the easy Riverside with great vistas of the river and cliffs. This the wider part.of the canyon. At the end of Riverside, you cross the river and head into the narrow canyon, with less daylight, no trail (the trail is the river). It looks fantastic, but I was on my easy day, so I'll try to come back later. I needed to tackle some more easy and moderate trails, Weeping Rock, Kayenta, and Lower Emerald Pools.  |
| Weeping Rock |
Weeping Rock is a short but steep trail leading to a small cove of rock with snowmelt waters showering down. Again, another refreshing break on a hot day of hiking.
The Emerald Pools are a series of pools created by the streams and dripping waters. There are three, Upper, Middle, and Lower. Start at the Grotto trail and take the left fork, lest you will be on the Angel's Landing trail. Go left and you are on the Kayenta trail. It climbs quickly, winds around on the sun drenched countryside. But patience is rewarded as you find a cooler, shadier trail and can take your choice of Emerald Pool trails. Overlooking the pools some fellow hikers and I cooled off under more water drops and viewed the pools below.
Day 2 is the more strenuous day. I'm ready. I've hiked a bit at higher elevation. I need to tame the Angel's Landing, one of the toughest, steepest points. Angel's landing gets its name from a man named Frederick Fisher and his group of friends declared in 1916, it's so high "only and angel could land on it." In Springdale, there is a restaurant named Switchback. They named it after this trail. Multiple wicked steep switchbacks don the 2.5 mile trail all the way to the top for a 1500 feet elevation gain. I had to stop many times to catch my breath. I began to wonder why I ever stopped running or cycling. My lungs need more conditioning.
About half way up, you find another little oasis and cooler spot with deep drop-offs below, named Refrigerator Canyon. Not only is the air cooler, but the rock formations are cool. I even sat inside a small cave in the rock for a little chilly rest. I saw another guy just laying down on top of a small ledge. Quite refreshing, especially on the way down.
At this point, the switchbacks are shorter and steeper, each level giving you more impressive views of the canyons and valleys. And finally, I arrive at a clearing area where you can decide to rest, continue up or go back down. This is Scout's Lookout. I'm pretty high up with incredible views, 1000 feet and 2 miles into the trail. But there's an even higher trek to make, to the end of Angel's Landing.
Another half mile and 500 more feet, it's very steep and dizzying, and narrow steps going up. You have to hold onto a chain bolted onto the rocks to help you climb. This sign is daunting and scary. When it says 6 (now 7 since 4 months ago) people died falling off of this monolith, you take notice.
I took notice and said, Oh Hell no! Look at these photos! Then the wind really picked up. Zion warns about winds and may even close trails. I can see fine from the landing and have beautiful views, thank you. The other guys around me, who were waiting for the significant others to climb and descend, said the same. He tried and saw the world moving too much and came back. Fear of heights is real, my friends. We're all good at this level. I had a little lunch break and admired all of my surroundings and marveled at the awesome power of nature. I watched as other people returned were relieved and thrilled at their terrific accomplishment.
As you can imagine, the hike down hill was a little easier. I saw many people running or jogging down. I just walk, a little more briskly than on the way up. As I get toward the end and near the river, a little dip in the water seems appropriate.
About half way up, you find another little oasis and cooler spot with deep drop-offs below, named Refrigerator Canyon. Not only is the air cooler, but the rock formations are cool. I even sat inside a small cave in the rock for a little chilly rest. I saw another guy just laying down on top of a small ledge. Quite refreshing, especially on the way down.
At this point, the switchbacks are shorter and steeper, each level giving you more impressive views of the canyons and valleys. And finally, I arrive at a clearing area where you can decide to rest, continue up or go back down. This is Scout's Lookout. I'm pretty high up with incredible views, 1000 feet and 2 miles into the trail. But there's an even higher trek to make, to the end of Angel's Landing. 
Another half mile and 500 more feet, it's very steep and dizzying, and narrow steps going up. You have to hold onto a chain bolted onto the rocks to help you climb. This sign is daunting and scary. When it says 6 (now 7 since 4 months ago) people died falling off of this monolith, you take notice.
I took notice and said, Oh Hell no! Look at these photos! Then the wind really picked up. Zion warns about winds and may even close trails. I can see fine from the landing and have beautiful views, thank you. The other guys around me, who were waiting for the significant others to climb and descend, said the same. He tried and saw the world moving too much and came back. Fear of heights is real, my friends. We're all good at this level. I had a little lunch break and admired all of my surroundings and marveled at the awesome power of nature. I watched as other people returned were relieved and thrilled at their terrific accomplishment.
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| Zion Brewing Amber, Springdale, UT |
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| Sunset in Southern Utah |
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