Islander Outlander

September 7, 2022

Well no, I'm not a time traveler, but I did travel to timeless west coast island beauty and sites seen in a television show and even a movie or two.

Glencoe

Glenfinnan Aqueduct

Meeting of the Three Waters

Before the movie scenes, I went to gorgeous scenic Isle of Skye, one of the Inner Hebrides islands off the west coast of Scotland.

The main "big" town in Skye is Portree, where there are colorful buildings and a picturesque harbor, with many B&Bs and restaurants.  It marks the starting point of a driver around the perimeter of the Trotternish Peninsula for great views and hikes.


After my loop drive and hike, I had seafood at the little yellow painted building at the left, Sea Breezes, next to The Pink House.

Scallops and risotto with veggies




Portree Harbour View

Portree Harbour View

The Trotternish road loop around the peninsula is only about 50 miles but takes a few hours when you make several stops at sites along the way. And the road narrows to a single lane in the north sections. It covers the northeast side of Skye. Start the day early to see what you want to see. You won't be able to do it all in one day either I suspect. I didn't. Start in Portree and take the A855 North. Take time to stop and take in more views of hills and lochs...








...and look for the signs for...

The Old Man of Storr

If you left early enough, you should be able to find parking in the car park. Pay the meter and take plenty of water. The hike will begin to rise immediately. The Old Man of Storr is a rock formation that actually resembles the face of a man. The hike to this spot will take 1 hour. You can stop here and go back down (it's much faster going down), but there are unofficial trails to take you to the summit of this area known as the Trotternish Ridge. 









Old Man of Storr

When I reached the area just below the Storr, I thought, well I can see what I need to see and didn't feel the need to climb way up further where I saw these hikers. But I contemplated. Then I chatted with three Dutch brothers, whose photos I took for them. They encouraged me and were confident I could do it. So, thanks to my new Netherlands friends, I took to the task.



Looking up to the summit








At the Summit.
To think, I was going to stop below that little lake to my right.



Some hikers ventured up this rock

To reach the summit took me a little over 2 hours. The hike down about 45 minutes. Good thing the meter for the car park was for 3 hours!

But this was an incredible view and a more than moderate hike. Wear good shoes! The weather was great and a t-shirt was fine, no other outerwear necessary in September. But as I said bring your water bottles and snacks for a little mini picnic at the top. Nuts and jerky were good for me.

Back in the car, drive north for a few minutes to a small car park for the Lealt Falls and Gorge. It is a quick stop but a place to admire. 










Continue the northward drive on A855 and look for signs to...

Kilt Rock

The basalt columns of this rock formation resemble the pleats of a kilt, hence the name. It's quite spectacular. The Mealt Falls are also here but it seemed to have less water flow than normal.



Mealt Falls





There are other places to stop that I didn't get to on this trip. Brothers Point is said to be amazing and very few travelers see it. I missed it too. Next time.

An Corran beach in Staffin is said to have dinosour tracks amidst the rocky beach, but could be covered by the tide. I'll have a look next time also.

Another site I wanted to visit is The Quiraing, a volcanic rock ridge on the northern part of the peninsula. I was so tired from my previous hike that another 2 hour hike seemed a bit far for me. It was definitely on my list I just couldn't do it this time. 

Other places that some itineraries include are Duntulm Castle and Flora Macdonald’s grave. To be honest they didn't interest me all that much. But the parking lot for them was full. 

The area I was most interest in was the Fairy Glen. But I also missed the opportunity. So this is why I said to myself I needed another day on Skye. I fell victim to my own advice of not putting too many things into one trip or day. So I will hopefully come back to Skye to see The Brothers Point, Quiraing, and Fairy Glen. For you, stay an extra night and see them on day two. 

Also on the island for beer and whisky aficionados, Isle of Skye brewery is located in Uig on the western side of the peninsula and Talisker Distillery is closer to Sligachan, in Carbost on the Sea Loch  Harport. Tours have recently reopened and are, like other distilleries, booked well in advance. But they have a bar and you can have drams of their available whiskies. I had Storm, Skye, and a distillery exclusive. They are made with peat so more smoky than others but not overwhelmingly so. 






And as always, watch out for the sheep and goats on the road





On the way to my hotel, I had a little rain and this beauty

Definitely make the Isle of Skye a part of your vacation experience.


Wizards, Time Travelers, Enchanters

Fans of Harry Potter or even just fans of Trains will want to check out the crossing of the Jacobite Steam Train, aka Hogwarts Express, over the Glenfinnan Aqueduct between Mallaig and Fort William on the Scottish mainland. 

I woke up very early to drive to Armadale on the Isle of Skye to take the ferry across to Mallaig. Reserving early isn't required, but makes the check-in easier. Using the car's registration license tag, the attendant knew who I was when I arrived! 








Dude was driving an Aston Martin Vanquish 45 in a 60! Come on Man!

The ferry takes about 30 minutes to cross. I took the earliest crossing at 8:15 am from Skye. To be able to see the train, the timing has to be right. The train starts it's journey in the morning from Fort William at 10:15 am and scheduled to arrive at the aqueduct around 10:40-10:50. But as you see, you won't be the only one vying for a good viewing and photography space! The drive from Mallaig to the Glenfinnan car park is about 40 minutes. 

Ferry Depart:  8:15

Ferry Arrival:  8:45

Glenfinnan Arrival: 9:30

Hike to a spot: 9:50-10:00

Train Arrival: 10:40-10:50

As is the case with any of the photos in the blog posts, click on the image for a larger view.





















Here is a video of the train beginning its crossing


The next area I visited on the mainland is Glencoe. A Glen is a valley surrounded by gently sloped curvy hills. Glencoe is in the Scottish Highlands and is often seen in ads, films, and in the opening credit scenes in Outlander. Filled with hills, waterfalls, and some rocky outcrops, this is the prototypical idyllic imagery of Scotland. Do you recognize it?












In the Glencoe area is a filming location where the Bridge Keeper appears in Monty Python and the Holy Grail.  He is also the crazy soothsayer from scene 24 who warns of an enchanter and a foul, cruel, and bad-tempered cave guardian. 

"Who would cross the Bridge of Death must answer me these questions three, ere the other side he see."

Filmed in the area of The Meeting of the Three Waters. The Gorge of Eternal Peril is among the glens here.




After seeing Glens, Trains, Waterfalls, and Lochs, it was time to get to Oban for an all important whisky tour at Oban Distillery.  In the next post, we'll visit the distillery, town of Oban and take a three island tour.

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